Much of our discussion revolved around the current state of the market (which has slowed by approximately 30-40% since October) and the lack of creativity within the industry. Demand for worsted men’s suits has declined and the design process lacks excitement and creativity.

Blog Part 4

This afternoon we meet with Mr. Leo Rogna, the product manager at Ermenegildo Zegna to talk a bit about Italian design, the fashion industry, and to discuss opportunities for our merino which he calls “the life fibre”. We meet Mr. Rogna at his very cool, modernist style studio near central piazza in the old town of Biella.

Mr. Rogna is a very successful Italian fashion designer and has been responsible for the style of the Zegna products for many years. He began his career working in the mill before moving into a design role. Today he manages the style of many Zegna collections and the company’s Chinese operations (Zegna has a fashion brand Sharmoon directed at the youth market of which the garments are put together in China – Italian style with Chinese production).

Much of our discussion revolved around the current state of the market (which has slowed by approximately 30-40% since October) and the lack of creativity within the industry. Demand for worsted men’s suits has declined and the design process lacks excitement and creativity. Mr. Rogna mentioned that the design of a new collection (fabric or garment collection) starts with an idea, and today most of the ideas are coming from something already done or something brought back from the past. “Our generation is only really buying black fabric and any style goes”. He states that the most important attributes of the suiting industry are colour, brand, and then price; which is not very inspiring.

Mr. Rogna believes the fashion world is very simple but everyone tries to make it complicated. And he should know – he owns over three hundred suits!

In regards to merino wool, Mr. Rogna had some very interesting thoughts which we will bring home. He said wool can remain as wool but we need to create more exciting products. “We need to open wool up to new applications and opportunities. Inside of wool there is life, it is like a diamond. Only 5% of fibre production in the world is wool”.

The real challenge from Mr. Rogna’s perspective is “how do you teach consumers about wool?”

There is a real opportunity now and this industry needs new ideas.

Thanks Leo for the serious discussions, the laughs, and the inspiration.